Kylie Jenner Look - The Russian Lip Fillers

INTRODUCTION

Lip augmentation has gained popularity due to increasing demand for facial enhancement. Aesthetically pleasing lips significantly influence facial attractiveness. Traditional techniques focus on increasing bulk, whereas this novel technique—commonly referred to as the Russian lip technique—emphasises vertical lip height and vermilion body projection.^[1] This approach aligns with current trends and aims for a more natural, lifted appearance.

CASE REPORT

A 24-year-old female presented to our clinic who wanted correction of her thin upper lip. She wanted to enhance the show of her vermilion body, drawing inspiration from the full, plump lips of celebrity Kylie Jenner, while also wanting to preserve her natural look.

On examination, she had a thin upper lip, so we planned a treatment for her using the Russian lip technique. The Russian lip technique was planned using Hyaluronic acid dermal fillers.

Before the procedure, we cleaned the lips with an antibacterial solution and applied numbing cream with 2.5% prilocaine and 2.5% lidocaine on the lips for 30 minutes to prevent any potential discomfort. Then, the patient’s lips were injected with 1 mL of hyaluronic acid dermal filler with 1 prick in the medial tubercle, 2 pricks in the lateral tubercle and 8 pricks given vertically in the upper lip using the Russian lip technique i.e. the product is injected vertically in the vermillion body or just below the vermillion border at the angle of 45 degrees, starting at the root of the lip and working outward to the lip border. To ensure an even distribution of the fillers, we gently massaged the treated area after the lip filler infusion. Postoperatively, an ice pack was applied to the lips to minimize swelling and inflammation. This technique transformed and reshaped her lips. It increased the vertical height of her thin lips and improved the vermillion show by giving her lips fullness without making them look artificial or duck-like.

It is important to be careful while giving injections because- If it’s given at 90 degrees instead of 45 degrees, then the tapering of the lateral lip will get obliterated; If a greyish colour appears while giving an injection, this indicates that the needle is too shallow, which can cause the Tyndall effect.^[2] And if the injection is given above the vermillion border, which is from the white roll of the skin, then it can enhance the vermillion border unnaturally, leading to duck lips.

This technique needs a high level of expertise, experience, and understanding of the underlying anatomy.

The patient should be asked to avoid any Anti-inflammatory drugs or blood-thinning medications for at least 3 days prior to the injection and strenuous exercise 2 hours prior to the procedure to minimise the potential adverse events that may occur.^[3]

After the procedure, the patient was advised to apply an ice cube wrapped in a thin cloth to minimise swelling, itching, bruising, and pain. She was instructed to stay well hydrated and consume soft, easy-to-eat foods while limiting excessive sodium intake to prevent worsening of lip swelling. She was also advised to sleep with her head elevated on pillows for at least 24 hours and to avoid sleeping on her face. Additionally, she was told to avoid strenuous exercise for 24 to 48 hours, as increased blood pressure could aggravate swelling and bruising.

Then the patient was called for follow-up at 4 and 12 weeks following the filler injection for analysing results as illustrated in Figures 1 and 2.

Close

Figure 1: Immediate frontal before-and-after results following the Russian lip filler technique. (a) The pre-procedure image (left) shows reduced vermilion show and lip definition, (b) The immediate post-procedure image (right) demonstrates increased vertical lip height, enhanced cupid’s bow definition, improved vermilion display, and a more contoured lip shape with minimal anterior projection, characteristic of the Russian lip technique.

Export to PPT

Close

Figure 2: Immediate oblique before-and-after views following the Russian lip filler technique. (a) The pre-procedure image (left) demonstrates limited vermilion show and reduced lip definition, (b) The immediate post-procedure image (right) shows increased vertical lip height, improved cupid’s bow contour, enhanced vermilion display, and preservation of a natural profile with minimal anterior projection, consistent with the Russian lip technique.

Export to PPT

DISCUSSION

Lip fillers have a significant impact on the facial aesthetic industry, where several techniques have been proposed for lip beautification in terms of both the results and delivering a safe injection procedure. One of the techniques being most popular these days is the ‘Russian lip technique’ using Hyaluronic acid dermal fillers. This technique was introduced by Dr. Evgeny Oks in the year 2015. Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the body that can attract water and induce swelling, increasing tissue volume and skin structural integrity. As a signalling molecule interacting with proteins, Hyaluronic acid causes several opposing effects based on molecular weight: pro-or anti-inflammatory effects, promotion or inhibition of cell migration, and activating or inhibiting cell division.^[4-5] Using Hyaluronic acid filler to enhance lip volume is one of the most requested procedures in daily facial aesthetic practices.^[6-7]

Russian lip technique is considered different from the lip augmentation technique in the following ways-

1. Technique- In the Russian lip technique, the filler is injected vertically, starting at the vermilion border of the lip and drawing the filler outward towards the lip border as illustrated in Figure 3.

2. Volume- Russian lip technique tends to lift the lip rather than adding excessive volume, seeking a natural finish, that is, it aims to improve the show of the vermillion body and make the lips higher and wider rather than plumping the lips in traditional lip filler.

3. Cost- The cost of the Russian lip technique and traditional lip augmentation with filler is approximately the same, and the amount of filler required is usually similar.

4. Time- The time duration of both procedures is the same, usually between 30 and 45 minutes.

5. After doing both procedures, one should anticipate swelling or bruising for 2-3 days.

6. Disadvantages -The Russian lips technique carries a higher risk of vascular compromise due to multiple vertical injections placed through the lip body. If not executed with precision, it can result in an unnatural, flat, or overly projected appearance instead of a soft contour. The dense placement of filler in a limited area also increases the chances of swelling, bruising, and post-procedure lumpiness.

Close

Figure 3: Marking of the vermilion border and vertical injection vectors used in the Russian lip filler technique. The illustration highlights the vermilion border as the primary landmark for product placement. Arrows depict the characteristic vertical, column-like injection pattern directed from the lip body toward the vermilion border, which is fundamental to the Russian lip technique for achieving increased lip height, enhanced cupid’s bow definition, and minimal anterior projection.

Export to PPT

After doing both procedures, one should anticipate swelling or bruising for 2-3 days.

Disadvantages -The Russian lips technique carries a higher risk of vascular compromise due to multiple vertical injections placed through the lip body. If not executed with precision, it can result in an unnatural, flat, or overly projected appearance instead of a soft contour. The dense placement of filler in a limited area also increases the chances of swelling, bruising, and post-procedure lumpiness.

CONCLUSION

The Russian lip technique is the newest, modified, and most on-trend technique that works to shape the lips into a subtle, aesthetically pleasing shape by accentuating the vermilion border. The techniques and results for both the traditional one and the Russian filler are different. Russian filler can be used for the correction of thin lips, which gives a lot of satisfaction to people, and it can also be used for the enhancement of normal lips, giving them a Kylie Jenner look, which makes them part of the trend. This technique is here to stay because it plays a major role in the correction and enhancement of the vermillion body. The procedure is minimally invasive, safe, effective, and convenient without any complications.